Havana in FebruaryA Cultural Renaissance Revealed
WORDS Ninette Paloma
The winter sun casts a warm glow over a sea of dilapidated roofs. A scrappy dog trots past a coconut vendor and sniffs at the scented air. Down a long, narrow street peppered with domino players and laughter, Havana’s palpable culture of gratitude for the simple pleasures in life is on full display. And just below the surface, the rumbling of change grows louder, fueled by a new generation of artists and innovators. From revolution to evolution - against a backdrop of catchy timba beats and delicate architecture -
Havana’s pulsating optimism endures. SEE Begin your visit by strolling through the Plaza de la Catedral, where the glimmering stained-glass archways of the Casa del Marqués de Arcos open up to reveal a striking mural of Cuba's most esteemed public figures. This is artist Andrés Carrillo’s homage to the Havana of yesteryear, where grand mansions rested on marshy land and played host to the city’s glitterati. Meander along the boardwalk of the city's serene waterfront, where views of the ancient Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro greet visitors catching a first glimpse of old Havana. The new Havana lies farther ahead in the leafy green residential neighborhood of Vedado, where a former cooking oil factory has become one of the country’s most buzzed about institutions for art and culture. Thanks to the vision of X Alfonso – a Cuban musician and part-time preservationist – the Fabrica de Arte Cubano serves up nightly doses of fine art, photography, architecture, dance, theatre, design, and music around a maze of galleries and halls. Their rotating exhibits include both upcoming and established artists to captivate a steady crowd of multigenerational enthusiasts. EAT For a classic Havana experience, seek out the city's intimate paladares, independently- owned establishments that roll out traditional dishes like three-pepper fideoa and finely minced picadillo alongside contemporary creations in downhome locales. With a crumbling façade and globally influenced menu, La Guarida is the city's indisputable darling, where ancient architecture and modern flavors shine in the year-round heat. The Imperatori brothers pile up the charm with their wildly popular O'Reilly 304, a cozy gin bar serving up rustic plates of veggie-centric entrees that marry old and new world cuisine with youthful vibrancy. After a stroll through the Fabrica de Arte, don't miss tucked-away El Cocinero serving amped-up interpretations of Cuban classics and fortified cocktails to linger over well past midnight. SIP El Floridita lives up to its storied reputation, serving up Havana's best daiquiris to notables from Ernest Hemingway to Barack Obama. Sidle up to the bar and order a classic from a library of offerings while swaying to the infectious energy of a live Cuban brass band. The nightlife continues with a stop at Roma, a speakeasy-style cocktail lounge where a swift elevator ride to the rooftop reveals panoramic views and a crowd of locals and visitors alike swaying to the sound of down tempo beats by owner/DJ Alain Dark. Craving a nightcap? Head around the corner and up a set of narrow stairs to El Del Frente, where sublime piña coladas serve as a witching hour dessert. 
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