Bali in March

Surrender to Island Life

WORDS Ninette Paloma

In the early morning hours on the island of Bali, spirituality is hard at work. Nimble fingers labor over intricately woven baskets of palm leaf and gambier plants in an even rhythm. This is the ritual of the Canang Sari, an embodiment of self-sacrifice and meditation, where carefully assembled structures are filled with symbolic flowers and gifts before being placed inside homes and on the streets as a daily offering.

Balanced above temple statues or close to the ground, the Canang Sari create synergy between the lower and higher spirits, and harmony between the worlds of gods and mortals. This is Bali, swirling with mysticism and the scent of frangipani blossoms framed by a towering Mount Agung. Her spirit is nothing short of activating, and in March, when the rainy season gives way to drier days, she beckons visitors to explore her verdant terrain and quiet mysteries with heart-open intention.

STAY

Known as Asia's first boutique hotel, the artist-owned and impeccably run beachfront resort Tandjung Sari is an endearing respite among the slick properties sprinkled along Sanur's gleaming waterfront. With winsome details that include handcrafted ceramics and brushed cotton night shirts that you'll insist on lounging in past breakfast, this charming collection of thatched-roof bungalows has managed to retain an authentic charm over its 50-year reign.   

EAT

Spicy nasi goreng, creamy rice bubur, and sweet tempeh manis are just some of the island's sublime signature dishes, prepared with mainstay ingredients from land and sea and perfumed with lemongrass and galangal root. Casual warungs like Lilla Warung serve up a fine balance of new and old-world cuisine alongside their arak-spiked cocktails and Bintang beer.
For an elevated experience, try the Asian fusion temple known as Mama San, where an outsized portrait of the madame herself watches over a boisterous crowd. At Locavore, choose from an omnivore or herbivore tasting menu, and let chefs Ray and Eelke take you on a flavor journey of hyper seasonal delights. Save room for Room 4 Dessert, chef Will Goldfarb’s multicourse ode to the sweet things in life.

SEE

It's hard to resist the appeal of a pucker-faced Macaque monkey, who holds center stage — and protective status — in Ubud's famed Monkey Forest. Hold tightly to your belongings and roam freely among these charismatic natives as you take in the crumbling temples and drooping vines of this arresting sanctuary.

SHOP

With a deep commitment to natural fibers and local artisans, Above the Clouds is a shoebox oasis of handwoven scarves, pima cotton trousers, and luxe linen totes. For handcrafted ceramicware, nothing beats the selection at Jenggala, the artist collective that also provides dishware for many of the island’s finest hotels. At Nogo Bali Ikat Center, stock up on hand-blocked prints, fine silk, and handwoven lace in beautifully designed environs.​​